Kheer Ganga – a unique refresher of the senses

Kheer Ganga is one of the most refreshing treks that you can go on anywhere. The hot spring experience is something that you will remember for a lifetime and beyond. Most people who reach this place always come back for seconds as there you can simply not get enough of such a place. The place is open for about 7 months in a year and is not permanently inhabited. There are two small villages that offer a resting place for travelers and even food and many other unexpected supplies. The first village is at around a couple of hours walk and offers the trekkers a place where you get delicious food cheaper than it is in nearby places. Believe it or not here in Kalga, there’s even a pool table thrown out in the open where you’ll find local kids from the village kill time. Remember that we left the road at Barshaini and all goods here are brought by either people or mules.

Take a look at the road that ends at Barshaini ( Paravati Hydropower project is also located here)

All along the way you meet herds of cattle and people ascending or descending from one of the two villages. Do not be mistaken, it’s not a busy path at all and neither is it a difficult one. The trek is very pleasant and offers some exhilarating views. The vegetation changes dramatically and opens up into a flatland that is graced by the occasional tent, the few guest houses and cafes and the temple premises which also comprises of the hot spring. The huts are rebuilt every year as snowfall during the winters makes it impossible for anyone to inhabit the rough terrain. The only way that anything reaches Kheer Ganga is on a mule or on carriers’ backs. You can see locals sprint down the mountain slope as most city folk struggle to climb up. Remember this as a rule when trekking in the mountains that a local will give you his time for getting to a particular point and it will serve you good to add an extra 50% of the time. Upwards from Kalga the path gets better and better, you know now that you are in the Parvati Valley. The climb too gets a little steeper as you go along and the forest gets a little deeper. Small streams of water trickle down the smaller slopes and the rushing white waters that now leave you as you enter the last part of the climb onto Kheerganga. For a person who has no problems keeping pace on a climb that is 10 kilometers at most, you can make it there in less than five hours. The most that you could take is seven hours even with a heavy load if you decide to camp in the open grounds.

Aftermath of the climb you are rewarded with release from all your pains during the day and get to bathe in the hot spring and rejuvenate yourself. Even though there is a hot spring at the gurudwara down at Mankiaran the experience of Kheer Ganga is unique in so many ways. Overlooking the small clearing is a small hill. The area above the temple ascends into the forest and the terrain gets a lot more hostile.

Take a look at the hill where Khir Ganga hotspring is located..

There are also good facilities for accommodation and food here considering that all the goods are taken via mules or human carriers. The locals sprint down the slopes with heavy goods on their back. There is simply no way that you can keep up with the locals when they ascend and descend. The friendly nature of the people is more than the warmth you need as all the things that you can think for are provided for at highly reasonable rates.

Shiva Temple located (close to Khirganga Hotspring)

Visiting the temple at early dawn before you proceed to the pool is customary. The biting cold is forgotten once your body is in that sulphur heated water. The locals too join in and the day soon begins as the sun rises over the small hill and the goats are brought out to graze on the lush greens. Make no mistake about it the terrain gets very harsh when it does, the houses are rebuilt at the beginning of every season and the people there say that they only do it not just because the money’s good but also because of the serenity of the place.

So let us finally check up on the requirement list and other details that you will need to trek all the way from Barshaini to Kheer Ganga.

The first thing that you will need is a good sturdy pair of shoes and a backpack. The size of your backpack will vary as per your plans of stay. If you plan to stay for a day, it can be a small backpack. However there is only one small problem with staying there for one day, your heart will melt away as you walk away from the place. You will also have to decide whether you would like to camp or rent. Camping here is easy and you will get all that you need. Carrying a raincoat with you is a good thing to do since the weather can be unpredictable sometimes. Basic things like a torch should also not be neglected just in case. There is no electricity in Kheer Ganga and the lights are all run on solar power. Remember to carry some food with you as you climb up and descend. Water is not a problem as the valley provides in plenty for you. The water from the streams in the valley people say is better than the best of what even Evian can give to you.

How to get there?

The first point is Kasaul which is about an hour and a half drive from Bhuntar which is an important stop en route to Manali. The road takes you up to the wonderful town of Kasaul and another 5 kilometers up to Manikaran which has a large gurudwara and expanding premises. It is said that the food in the gurudwara is also prepared from the waters of a hot spring. The starting point of the trek is another 19 kilometers from Manikaran. A place called Barshainey has a large hydel power project here and this is where the trail begins from as you walk past the machinery and walk into the sparse jungle up into the forests of Parvati Valley.

Here are a few pictures from Khir Ganga

and next one .. mountains on front side..

a bridge close to Rudranag on Barshaini-Khir Ganga trek… ( one person at a time)

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Drop your experiences if you have visited Khir Ganga in recent past.. Queries are welcome as well.